Located in the Hyatt Hotel in Malate, the Fireplace Grill is probably one of the most elegant, secluded places in Metro Manila.

With its quiet surroundings and dim lighting reminiscent of intimate fireplace light (and yes, it does sport an actual fireplace as well, located behind the counter burning local wood like Ipil Ipil and Madre de Cacao that helps flavor the steaks), the restaurant is a perfect place for clandestine meetings or marriage proposals.

Oh yeah, the food is good, too.

Let's start with the bread. Don't even think about passing up the bread.

Get there early enough and it will still be warm, the crusty buns just a few minutes out of the oven, to be broken apart with your fingers, soft insides eaten with butter or used to mop up extra virgin olive oil with fragrant balsalmic vinegar.

Start off with the Oyster Tempura (P577.09++), oysters enveloped by pastry topped with nori strips, fish roe, and cucumber bits to round off the flavor.

The first thing that hits you is the sweetness of wasabe, followed by the realization that it doesn't contain any of its heat.

Drizzling fresh lemon on the tempura gives another dimension to its already complex flavor, taking it from a yummy tiny slighty salty fried thing into a really yummy tiny salty fried thing with zing. Trust me. I know whereof I speak.

What I really love about the Fireplace Grill are its side dishes. This, my friends, is a restaurant that gives food sidekicks equal billing, so much so that you're tempted to forget the main course altogether.

Take for example the complimentary Potato Gratin that comes with the steak.

A huge serving of scalloped potatoes baked with milk and Parmigiano Regiano, soft and creamy and just makes you feel good, like the world is a nice place where bunnies cavort with unicorns. It's that much of a comfort food.

Likewise, the Creamed Spinach (P225), which is creamy, containing the spinach's lovely flavor without the bittet aftertaste.

Vegetarians (heck, even meat eaters) will like the Grilled Portobello Mushrooms (P520), with its big serving (two giant mushrooms), meaty texture, and a taste that hints of seafood: oysters and crab.

The Risotto of Wild Forest Mushrooms (P750), with its bouquet of button, shiitake, abalone, and portobello mushrooms is simply divine.

The rice is firm, yielding to soft creaminess, with the mushrooms taking on a smoky flavor.

The dish may be a biy salty for some, but that's probably because of the parmesan cheese shaved over it. It also comes in a big serving, and is best shared.

The Porterhouse Steak (P3450 for 25 oz) is tender and beefy, with a hint of smokiness that tells of salt, pepper and the grill.

It comes with mushroom, Bernaise and green peppercorn sauce, the latter being the best tasting but as with good beef, is best done without.

The steak is, simply, the bomb.

But don't stuff yourself yet, there's still dessert to look forward to.

The Chocolate Soup with Vanilla Pepper (P350) looks like a flattened souffle and tastes like a melted chocolate cake.

The river of gooey chocolatey goodness is balanced by a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

It's one of those desserts that could probably kill you, but one whose taste would be worth the instant cavities you are bound to get after eating it.

If that's too much chocolate for you, balance it off with the Fruit Salad with Lemon Sorbet (P350). This is not your usual fruit salad, containing blueberries, dragonfruit, red currant, cantalope and kiwi, aside from apples and pineapples in a light syrup made with Grand Marnier, orange juice and honey.

It's got a medicinal quality to it that disappears when mixed with the sorbet, which is sweet, tangy and refreshing. A light dessert that's a great way to end a heavy meal.

Unobtrusive and out of the way, it's easy to forget that the Fireplace Grill exists. Its cuisine, however, must not be overlooked.

Fireplace Grill
6pm - 11pm