Monday, April 6. 2009Lowlanders once hated Baguio
What a difference a hundred years make!
 On my way down from Baguio last month after another merry social weekend, I got a text message from the Baguio-based culinary artist Laida Lim that her beloved central vegetable market had just burned down. So much for the city of pines' celebratory centennial mood. Most regular Baguio visitors know the Baguio market's charms, brimming with colorful veggies and flowers, even if some of the produce is now sourced in China. So those market lovers scattered around the world who gathered in facebook accounts to mourn the loss were filled with nostalgia for childhood trips, barkada adventures, hearty meals, and the market's succulent strawberries. The photo above shows Baguio's open-air market in its early days, when goods were brought by cattle-drawn wagons and Session Road in the background only had buildings on one side of the street. The picture is from the US Library of Congress and was sent to me by Jack Cariño, who emailed me the following description: Lower Session Road in the background. Bull carts are parked in what is now People's Park (Malcolm Square). At time of this photo, there were twin buildings which served as the market buildings which were to the right of the photo. The market crowd in photo were actually in front of the twin market buildings, if you shot a photo from lower Session Road. Baguio is celebrating the centennial of its charter this year, and has been so loved by so many for so long that it's almost unimaginable that there was a time when many lowland Filipinos hated the idea of an upland vacation destination. That's what I learned when I read City of Pines, a classic history of the origins of Baguio by UC Berkeley geographer Robert Reed (reprinted by A-Seven Publishing in Baguio). I picked up the book while attending the Baguio Centennial conference at UP Baguio in late February. Before Baguio the city, there was just rolling pasture land, nippy air, accommodating Ibaloi people, and treacherous trails up the steep Cordillera mountain range. The plateau's isolation came to an end when US colonial authorities decided to execute a Spanish plan to establish a "hill station" for the recuperation of soldiers and the enjoyment of white lowland residents who missed the cooler climes of their home countries. It was also believed that lower temperatures were better for the health. The problem was constructing a decent road to Baguio turned out to be hell, costing hundreds of lives and delayed by typhoon weather and landslides. After two years of turtle-like progress, the public-funded project was handed over to Major L. W. V. Kennon, a talented US Army engineer who assembled a labor force of forty-six nationalities to finish the job by 1905. Kennon Road is still the quickest among several routes to Baguio from the lowlands. Even with winding road access, Baguio in those days was still primarily a retreat for Americans and wealthy Filipinos, and thus the frequent target of populist ire. Robert Reed quotes a 1912 editorial in La Vanguardia, a Spanish-language newspaper in Manila: If they want to make Baguio a city for aristocratic pilgrimages and the center of luxury and gaiety, why do they not spend the money of the persons directly interested? Why do not all those who applaud the idea -- bureaucrats and millionaires -- contribute with their own funds instead of pillaging the people, who only see the imperial city in dreams? The "imperial city in dreams" in 1912 eventually became a real place for the hundreds of thousands of non-millionaires escaping the helter-swelter of the lowlands at this time of year.  Among the well-known things to do in Baguio are the pony rides in Wright Park in Pacdal (although many horses are actually big racing thoroughbreds like the one I'm riding, a gentle creature named Santiago). I hung out there for a few days in March getting to know the pony boys who would compete in the Panabenga Gymkhana, a series of races and other horse events with cash prizes. I found out from my main source about the gymkhana, Feliz Perez, that the first one organized in the 1970s was the idea of horse enthusiast and former Miss Universe Gloria Diaz, who rode bra-less and bareback in that steaming 1975 classic, Ang Pinakamagandang Hayop sa Balat ng Lupa. My I-Witness docu on Baguio's horse-riding traditions is pasted below (complete with two clips of maiden Gloria astride a horse in the sartorial condition described above): Part two is here, and part three is here. Trackbacks
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How can you take that video in the middle of the war? hi!!!! my name is karina gutierrez. I am a student in koy's class. We just saw your vidio Schoool Hope and it was cool and important I like it alot. I just have a question? What do you feel when you knew that little childrens figth in the war?
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This blog will attempt to find relevance in the exotic and the commonplace, value the undervalued, and satisfy my personal curiosity about all things that have anything to do with being Filipino. Howie Severino is a journalist, documentary maker, mentor, father, husband, patriot and pilgrim. He does two main gigs on television: I-Witness, GMA Network's pioneering documentary program, and Sine Totoo, a showcase for some of GMA's best non-fiction public affairs programming. For four years, Howie also reported on culture and travel in the quirky Sidetrip sa Saksi stories on the late night news. He has also worked at, in reverse chronological order, The Probe Team (reporter), Phil. Center for Investigative Journalism (staff), The Manila Chronicle (reporter), The Journal Weekender (editor), Department of Health (speechwriter), Ateneo de Manila High School (teacher), the Philippine Embassy in Wash. D.C. (writer), the Boston Common (pretzel vendor), McDonald's (grill cook), newspaper delivery boy, choirboy. In the mid 1990s, Howie wrote a column in the Manila Times called Moving Mountains, which explored environmental issues and trends. His email: howieseverino@gmail.com  Shotlisting in Aceh after a day of covering the aftermath of the Asian tsunami, January 2005. (Photo by Aye Navarro) Top banner photo of Howie in Culion, Palawan by Ella Evangelista Calendar
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