Tuesday, November 8. 2005The world's most dangerous train ride?
In Manila, train personnel and passengers can be pelted with everything from solid projectiles to "flying saucers."
 Globe-trotting Filipino workers and travellers know the pleasures of riding trains in other countries -- from England to Japan, the railroad is usually the safest, fastest and most pleasant form of public transportation. Roomier than buses, trains follow their own rhythyms independent of road traffic, slicing cleanly through urban centers on their way to green countryside. Cars and all other vehicles stop for trains, which always have the right of way. That is why in many places rail companies can promise to be punctual down to the minute. In the Philippines, we wish. I took a train ride recently on the commuter Metrotren from Tayuman Station in Manila to Sucat on the outskirts of our megacity. It was slow, dangerous, and dirty. But thousands still ride the train daily because it is cheaper than jeepneys and buses, and if you're bringing merchandise like fruits to market, there's more space.
The current imbroglio about the North Rail project, which the mainland Chinese contractor has yet to start, has made many overlook that we already have a South Rail line all the way to Bicol, the famous Bicol Express from Manila to Legaspi. The Philippine National Railroad, the government corporation that runs our oldest rail line (of course we also have the newer, elevated and more expensive MRT and LRT lines in Metro Manila), is so in the red that it stopped making payments to the GSIS years ago without even informing its employees (a group of them told me so). Most of that Bicol Express trip is uneventful (except for the deadly derailing in Quezon province earlier this year because of stolen rail spikes). But the journey through Manila is like riding into war. The railroad tracks cut through some of the densest urban communities in the country. Irritated by their broken sleep or interrupted card games on the tracks, local toughies pelt the train with anything within reach. I was shooting (my camera) from the front of the train when I got hit by a piece of wood. I was lucky.  A conductor sees the track ahead through glass cracked by a trackside settler with good aim. Train personnel show scars from rocks. That's why the conductors have screens over the glass windshields. The passenger cars have metal screens too but no glass, so wooden windows are pulled up in certain neighborhoods which are known to harbor shit throwers. Yes, some crazies wait for the train to pass so they can bombard it with poo-poo wrapped in newspapers, otherwise known as "flying saucers." Others see the train as a convenient garbage disposal system: they throw their bags of garbage onto the moving roof and not have to worry about tardy garbage pick-ups. I-Witness editor JJ Villamarin cracked me up once by feigning garbage envy: "Buti pa basura may libreng byahe sa Bicol." (Lucky garbage, they get to ride to Bicol for free) Trackside residents nurse a deep grudge against the passing trains, blaming them for the numerous accidents that have occurred along the tracks over the years, even though the railroad was there first. The victims are usually drunks or kids who get in the way of a rumbling behemoth that cannot stop on a dime. But there's also the case of everyone's friend Caloy Abrera, Paolo's dad and Suzi Entrata's father-in-law, a visitor to the tracks in Taguig who was killed while shopping for plants. The din of the neighborhoods can be so loud it's easy to miss the sound of an approaching train or to miscalculate its distance. I recall Ditsi Carolino's cinema verite Riles, where trackside videoke singers belt out sad songs, oblivious to that choo-choo reminder of their always-pending eviction. That's what has happened recently to tens of thousands of informal settlers along the northern line.  Trains and trackside communities are a fatal mix. But it's yet another consequence of the country's land problem. Many migrants and other poor people just have nowhere else to settle but one of the most perilous places to call home. Comments
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it would be interesting to do a story on people who depend on the railways for livelihood, like the trolley boys that ply the south railway system. when i was a child, i used to ride these trolleys just for fun (it's really interesting to go sight-seeing via the trolleys). when we feel the rumble of an oncoming train, passengers and trolleys alight the rails and wait for the train to pass by and then we would get on again and continue the journey.
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Thanks for mentioning the trolleys (called skates in Bicol), which have appeared in several stories I've done. The most numerous are probably in the area around PUP in Santa Mesa, Manila. Powered by feet, they are the cheapest and fastest form of transpo for a lot of students in that area.
I think many stories have been made of houses, homes and lives along the rail tracks. If I am not mistaken, these have been shown on GMA7 (Oh wait, Howie has mentioned this na pala). The bigger question is, hanggang dito na lang ba? Are there no plans whatsoever with regard this problem of houses along the tracks? Otherwise, we can only look forward to more sad stories about people getting run over by passing trains.
To solve this, the govt would have to solve the land distribution and population problem. Basically, we have too many people living in too small a space. Hope we see light at the end of the tunnel of our lives (or could that be an oncoming train?).
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but i am really curious how other people were able to obtain land titles for their homes along da riles when i think (correct me if i'm wrong) they can't since these lands are really gov't property. in our province, houses along the railways aren't barong-barong --- kongkreto at mukhang maykaya pa yung nakatira. i grew up in a place only 200 m away from the railways and i had playmates who lived along or near the tracks. my brother was close to being run over by a train when he was 2-3 yrs old. the problem with homes along da riles is not just about squatting. mahirap sagutin kelan masosolve ang problema sa home along d riles. it's a systemic problem: poverty, landlessness, rural to urban migration, etc. as long as we still have these problems, hindi mawawala ng homes along da riles. The home-along-the-riles problem is about land not in the sense that 10 million Manila residents, or whatever the number is now, ought to own a piece of land. MetroManila, large as it is in land area, is much too small for that. The problem is public housing, but that is a problem of land in the sense that the government alienated so much land to private developers that no land is left for public housing. Indeed, government housing has been built along the riles! Around the South "Superhighway" and Quirino junction in Malate. Also in Makati. How's that for lawmaker-lawbreaker. Public housing, along with public health and public education, is another area where the government has criminally abdicated its responsibility.
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I am from Palestinian and learning to read in English, give true I wrote the following sentence: "Breaking down strikeforce carano vs." With best wishes :D, Nick. Part of the reason for building public housing along the riles is politicians don't want to lose voters by resettling them elsewhere. The politicians think they improve their constituents' lives by housing them in concrete, but their children still play along the riles where they get run over in untold numbers. Can you believe that the PNR doesn't even count the deaths? (Well, neither has the Army kept track of its casualties)
I was told by train personnel that they don't even stop when they run over someone. If they did, irate neighbors of the victims would overrun the train cars and go beserk. What the PNR does is send a telegram to the community to say sorry and offer assistance. Since the 1950s, every plan to get decent rail transport running has collided with the "squatter" problem on the railroad tracks. The reason for the "squatter" problem is the lack -- or absence -- of public housing, and the reason for that is the government's irresponsible alienation of public lands to private developers. Resettlement to far-flung places has not worked. Where will the resettled get the transport money to commute to work? In some other Asian cities, like Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Hong Kong, the poor are "resettled" in high-density housing in the heart of the city. Resettling the poor in outlying areas breeds problems like what we are seeing in France today -- and the home-along-the-riles phenomenon in Luzon.
di ko pa nasubukang sumakay ng tren (PNR) pero gusto ko ring sumulat tungkol sa PNR.....siguro pag nakasakay ako
...Siguro knung may tren tulad noon, mas magiging madali ang pagdeliver ng mga produce ng mga bayang dinadaanan nito papunta ng Maynila. At mas maraming Pilipino ang makatatanaw sa kagandahan ng Bulkang Mayon. May alternative trasportation pa. Naalala ko nuon may mga kaibigan akong pumapasok sa Makati na nagtrain, kaya lang ngayon daw ay delikado na. Sana maayos ang problema na napakarami ng Train System.
sana talaga maayos ung train system natin kasi tayo ata ang may pinakapanget ng train system sa buong SE Asia [tignan nyo na lang ung sa Thailand]...
Karamihan nga ng kabaong papunta at galing sa bicol sa tren isinasakay. mas mura talaga ang tren kesa trak pagdating sa cargo.
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Wow yesterday may babae nasagasaan ng tren. Actually dalawang tren. Di ba niya nakita, yon? I wonder yung logic sino ba ang may kasalanan kapag ganoon. E ang laki ng tren. Last week may taxi pumara sa gitna ng riles crossing tapos na drag ung taxi nya. E bakit siya pumara sa gitna. Given at alam natin na talagang walang kwenta ang systema ng tren for the past decade. Alam natin walang warning o harang pag may dumaan. Walang sistema. Dapat aware din tayo. Ang mga tao puwede ng mag trip to the moon parang around the world. Ang tren natin parang KOPONG KOPONG. EWAN
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Carl Excuse me on the last post, I meant to say I was on the train from Manila heading south to Naga, the last train stop before legaspi.
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Yes you are right, most of the time the vibe along the tracks is cool. People wave, the ride is smooth. But that's like the rest of the country -- 99% of the people are friendly and don't want to do you harm. It's the nasty 1% that cause all the damage. I took that sleeper to Naga myself a couple of years ago. Except for a long train stop in a small dark town in Quezon province in the middle of the night, the journey was excellent, with the family next to me sharing their adobo. They don't serve meals on board! hello sir howie! As always, an interesting topic from yah. Geez. I've always thought those trains were dangerous. But I never realized that they were "the" world's most dangerous choo-choo's! And the thing about the lack for statistics when it comes to the casualties, its just sadddening...talaga. Basta, keep on writing those interesting articles...the best ka talaga! God Bless!
As Carl says in his post above, most people living along the tracks are very friendly and do no harm. But there are those relatively few with chips on their shoulders and rocks in their hands, waiting for the next train.
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Howie! Great post on the trains! I didn't have a chance to take one during my last visit. Hope you and the family are well. A hui hou!
Aloha! Sorry I missed you on your last gig in the Philippines. Miss your piano playing.
Thanks for the mention on your blog and, yes, I'm the travel writer and author of several guides to Southeast Asia, including the Philippines Handbook. And long live that train! I just wish they would extend the tracks to Legaspi and fix up the old coaches, so that travelers and perhaps even tourists would consider the train rather than the long and dangerous bus ride to the south.
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This blog will attempt to find relevance in the exotic and the commonplace, value the undervalued, and satisfy my personal curiosity about all things that have anything to do with being Filipino. Howie Severino is a journalist, documentary maker, mentor, father, husband, patriot and pilgrim. He does two main gigs on television: I-Witness, GMA Network's pioneering documentary program, and Sine Totoo, a showcase for some of GMA's best non-fiction public affairs programming. For four years, Howie also reported on culture and travel in the quirky Sidetrip sa Saksi stories on the late night news. He has also worked at, in reverse chronological order, The Probe Team (reporter), Phil. Center for Investigative Journalism (staff), The Manila Chronicle (reporter), The Journal Weekender (editor), Department of Health (speechwriter), Ateneo de Manila High School (teacher), the Philippine Embassy in Wash. D.C. (writer), the Boston Common (pretzel vendor), McDonald's (grill cook), newspaper delivery boy, choirboy. In the mid 1990s, Howie wrote a column in the Manila Times called Moving Mountains, which explored environmental issues and trends. His email: howieseverino@gmail.com  Shotlisting in Aceh after a day of covering the aftermath of the Asian tsunami, January 2005. (Photo by Aye Navarro) Top banner photo of Howie in Culion, Palawan by Ella Evangelista Calendar
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Some interesting reactions to the blog entry on the dangers of riding old trains in the Philippines. Thank you Carl Parkes for reminding us that it's actually a cool experience most of the time, especially the sleeper to Naga along the Bicol express l
Tracked: Nov 27, 16:57