Friday, September 22. 2006Murder in the cathedral and a bloody exhibit This is the cathedral in Vigan, Ilocos Sur competing for worshippers with the church-like McDonald's across the street to its left. The Vigan Cathedral is probably best known for the daring assassination that cemented the Ilocos region's nationwide reputation as the wild, wild west of the Philippines. On October 18, 1970, the Ilocos Sur kingpin, Congressman Floro Crisologo, had just stood up at Sunday mass so he could fall in line for communion when a lone gunman darted behind him and shot him in the head. According to eye-witness accounts, while the terrified crowd rushed to the exits in the back of the church, the killer ran in the opposite direction towards the altar, exited near the front and disappeared. The murder hasn't been solved.  Just below pictures of the fallen supremo are his bloodied pants, unwashed from the day he was killed. Just so the brazen crime wouldn't be forgotten, the Crisologo family turned their Vigan mansion into a museum in the patriarch's memory, with pictures of the slain, clippings, and the late politician's bloody clothes occupying the grisly central exihibt of the museum.  Vigan is now a safe place, with the soothing clip-clopping sound of kalesas bouncing around the original cobblestone streets. But long before Ninoy Aquino's murder on an airport tarmac, Crisologo's killing in a place for worship symbolized just how bloody Philippine politics is.  Crisologo's widow Carmeling, then the province's governor, promised she wouldn't exact revenge and she didn't. But her distraught eldest son Bingbong did, infamously burning down a village occupied by followers of their family's political opponents. He went to jail for that and became born-again. A movie was made about his life. Some years after his release, Bingbong was elected to congress to represent Quezon City. I just heard him on the radio the other day, complaining that he didn't get his share of political pork.  Theories abound about who hired his father's hitman. Marcos, whose family controlled neighboring Ilocos Norte, was an obvious suspect, and so was the New People's Army. But in hindsight, the greatest beneficiary from Crisologo's death was his nephew, Chavit Singson, whose rise to power in the 1970s thus had little competition. Chavit is now one of the country's longest surviving and most colorful political acts, turning Baluarte, his vast home property in Vigan, into an animal kingdom and tourist attraction, with tigers, ostriches, and miniature horses to entertain children. Taking the kalesa from the Crisologo murder exhibit to the Singson zoo, a tourist can in one morning take in the whole sordid gamut of Ilocos Sur politics.  By the way, in case anyone forgets that there was a long life before a famous death, many of Crisologo's prized possessions and mementoes are in the museum, such as his original desk and office from his days in Congress. He wrote the law that established the Social Security System. Trackbacks
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until now ilocos sur is no place for new breed politicians. the singson clan still dominate the place and would do anything to get what they want. i should now, i lived there when i was a kid and believe me, being a singson is not easy. everybody thinks you're a murderer and that 1 day you'll be sitting in government.
politics in ilocos is more rotten than before. ubusan ng lahi.. hanggang may nabubuhay na kaaway ang mga nasa posisyon sa ilocos, may mamamatay. kaya we had to leave ilocos. not a place to have a peaceful life. Bullet! Where are you? I'm in US now still with CCC. Email me at the above email address. Would love to hear from you!
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i remember being in the same museum. this was the one with the pink beetle, right?
Benj, don't recall the pink beetle. But it had a lot of other stuff, like the chevy sedan Floro Crisologo's wife Carmeling was riding in when she was anbushed in 1961. She survived.
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I remember my visit here last year, It was really a grim remembrance for the worst time in that province. But, vigan is a nice place now for tourist. I heard alot of stories from my friend in vigan about that grim stories.
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they were known for beating up each other and sometimes casting some rude words againts each other.
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QuicksearchAbout SidetripMISSION
This blog will attempt to find relevance in the exotic and the commonplace, value the undervalued, and satisfy my personal curiosity about all things that have anything to do with being Filipino. Howie Severino is a journalist, documentary maker, mentor, father, husband, patriot and pilgrim. He does two main gigs on television: I-Witness, GMA Network's pioneering documentary program, and Sine Totoo, a showcase for some of GMA's best non-fiction public affairs programming. For four years, Howie also reported on culture and travel in the quirky Sidetrip sa Saksi stories on the late night news. He has also worked at, in reverse chronological order, The Probe Team (reporter), Phil. Center for Investigative Journalism (staff), The Manila Chronicle (reporter), The Journal Weekender (editor), Department of Health (speechwriter), Ateneo de Manila High School (teacher), the Philippine Embassy in Wash. D.C. (writer), the Boston Common (pretzel vendor), McDonald's (grill cook), newspaper delivery boy, choirboy. In the mid 1990s, Howie wrote a column in the Manila Times called Moving Mountains, which explored environmental issues and trends. His email: howieseverino@gmail.com  Shotlisting in Aceh after a day of covering the aftermath of the Asian tsunami, January 2005. (Photo by Aye Navarro) Top banner photo of Howie in Culion, Palawan by Ella Evangelista Calendar
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